Morrowind Mods

So now that the holidays are in place I have a lot of free time on my hands and what better way for a gamer to use that time than playing Morrowind ?

So before I start my epic journey with my epic thief, I want to know what are the "must have" mods when starting a fresh game. I played this game several times and the only mod I only used is "A good place to stay". I am not interested in mods that enhance visuals (maybe just body/face replaces) because I like the world and atmosphere of the game.