For the US, it's generally not directly disclosed to the consumer. The pinch comes within the media corporation itself, since they have to document those freebies (if the value is over $50 or some such amount) and it eventually gets reviewed by various auditors. If the auditor saw wolfing's wild boondoggle on the books for a game they reviewed, that would lead to a conflict of interest investigation against the employee which would eventually lead to a corruption investigation of the media company by corporate regulators which would end up getting settled out of court for some ridiculously large fine. The theory is that, since nobody's going to jail and no fines are being handed out, the consumer can trust the reviews haven't been bought. Of course, there's plenty of holes in that system, but overall it does OK.
I have no idea if the Euro system is similar.