The Bike Thread

Well, I'm planning on buying a bike. A mountain bike to be exact. And I have my eyes on a Cannondale Rush Carbon 3, with the Lefty Hook. Anyone have any experience with this sort of hook?

Here it is. The one I'd like to buy.


And here's the lefty hook. I've read a few reviews online and apparently this sort of hook is better than the standard hook.


Also, I'm a bit amazed that here in Romania I can get that bike for way cheaper than in the US. Way cheaper.

I'd like to hear your feedback, if you've had or have one of these sort of bikes. Or have any significant experience in bikes.

That design has been around for a while, and C-dale has had time to work out the kinks. It has a very good reputation. The main drawback is that it's a huge thief magnet -- no lock will keep that bike safe; you'll have to store it indoors if you want to keep it more than a few days.

I've had two Cannondales (still have one, actually), and both are excellent bikes. The one that got stolen was a mountain bike (cross-country, not downhill like that one), the other one is a road bike. Both of them have a "Mercedes-like" feel about them -- rock solid, extremely stable, but not as responsive or "nimble" as some other bikes I have or have had (a Kona Kilauea XC MTB, or a Veneto Ardiden road bike, for example).

My current daily ride is a fixed-gear I built myself around a 1950's racing bike frame, with parts mostly from a 1970's vintage French tourer. I added Nitto moustache handlebars both for the looks and to fit it to my size -- normally the frame would be a hair small for me, but with those handlebars I get a very nice geometry on it for myself.

I wanted to get a "retro" look to the bike -- something that brings to mind the racers from the days before derailers. That's one reason I picked the fairly fat tires -- the other reason is that this is mostly for urban riding, and there's a lot of cobblestone in my town which isn't much fun on skinny tires.



(I've since swapped the handlebar tape for black; the red didn't quite fit after all.)

Thanks for sharing, and that bike of yours looks cool.

But unfortunately I've been dragged back into reality when I realized I miss-read the price in my local currency for that Cannondale bike. No wonder it's 2500 dollars. I thought it was some sort of mistake, but no. That's how much it costs. Anyways, it awesome-looking but I can't afford it.

So I'm looking into another full-suspension bike. It's called F4-m from Drag. Or Drag F4-m for the whole name. Here's the specs. How do they seem you, if you don't mind me asking?

Here's a picture: Drag f4-m


They're not complete and I can't translate some of them, but the main ones should be here.

Frame: Drag F4-m Aluminiu 7005 T6
Hook: Suntour XCR
Rear Suspensions: Coil Spring
Crank: Suntour SW-XCC 24/34/42
Bottom bracket(i think): VP-BC73 Cartridge
Cassette(i think): Shimano CS-HG30-7, 11-28

Rear Derailleur: Shimano Acera
Front Derailleur: Shimano Altus
Crank: Shimano ST-EF50
Brakelevers: Shimano ST-EF50
Front Brake: Tektro IO, disc mecanic
Rear Brake: Tektro IO, disc mecanic

Front hub: Formula DC-20, 36 spite
Rear hub: Formula DC-22, 36 spite
Tires: Schwalbe Jimmy 26x2.1

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Thank you.

You're not gonna like this, but... no. I'd pass on that one. The components aren't quite bottom-of-the-barrel, but they're close, and if the frame is of comparable quality, that's not going to be a very nice bike. Full-suspension bikes are inherently more complex than hardtails, which means that one made with cheap components and a somewhat dodgy frame is going to be pretty unpleasant. You won't be able to do downhill with that any better than with a decent hardtail, but you will find it a lot less pleasant going uphill or level. The rear suspension is coil-spring and apparently undamped (or friction-damped at best), which means you'll be bobbing up and down like mad, which will eat your pedaling power.

If you're on a tight budget, I would suggest either buying on the used market (although in this case you should know your way around bikes well enough to be able to do a quick mechanical check-up on the one you want to buy), or going with a comparably-priced hardtail. You'll be able to get one with slightly better components, and being a hardtail, it's not as demanding of them to start with.

Prime Junta said:

You're not gonna like this, but... no. I'd pass on that one. The components aren't quite bottom-of-the-barrel, but they're close, and if the frame is of comparable quality, that's not going to be a very nice bike. Full-suspension bikes are inherently more complex than hardtails, which means that one made with cheap components and a somewhat dodgy frame is going to be pretty unpleasant. You won't be able to do downhill with that any better than with a decent hardtail, but you will find it a lot less pleasant going uphill or level. The rear suspension is coil-spring and apparently undamped (or friction-damped at best), which means you'll be bobbing up and down like mad, which will eat your pedaling power.

If you're on a tight budget, I would suggest either buying on the used market (although in this case you should know your way around bikes well enough to be able to do a quick mechanical check-up on the one you want to buy), or going with a comparably-priced hardtail. You'll be able to get one with slightly better components, and being a hardtail, it's not as demanding of them to start with.

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Wow, thanks for all the insight. I think I'm gonna do what you said, and go for a better hardtail. I'll come back with some new options and have to ask you for some more insight on them, as you seem quite knowledgeable around bikes. Thanks again.

danutz_plusplus said:

Wow, thanks for all the insight. I think I'm gonna do what you said, and go for a better hardtail. I'll come back with some new options and have to ask you for some more insight on them, as you seem quite knowledgeable around bikes. Thanks again.

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No problem, I always like to talk bikes.

By the way, you can always spice up a hardtail with a suspension seatpost. That takes the edge off bumps quite nicely if you're riding seated anyway.

Ok, that was fast. I just did a search for hardtails of the same price as that full suspension, or something close. Maybe a little bit over. And I found a Cannondale that I'd like to hear your opinions on.

It's the Cannondale F5. But after checking the official Cannondale site I noticed that for the same model the specs are slightly different in my local shop. Anyways here's both specs.

First the official specs and image are these:

Frame CO2 SL Alloy HeadShok
Fork Rock Shox Dart 3 w/Turn Key Lock Out, 100 mm
Rear Shock N/A
Rims Jalco Disc X320, 32 hole
Hubs Formula DC20/22
Spokes Stainless Steel
Tires Kenda Nevegal, 26 x 2.1"
Pedals Wellgo alloy platform
Crank FSA CK-306TTT, 22/32/44
Chain KMC 9-speed
Rear Cogs SRAM PG-950, 11-34
Bottom Bracket FSA TH-7420ST
Front Derailleur SRAM X-7
Rear Derailleur SRAM X-5
Shifters SRAM X-5 Trigger 9-speed
Handlebars Cannondale C3 650 mm, 20 mm rise
Stem Cannondale XC3 1 1/8", 31.8 mm
Headset Cannondale Converter
Brakeset Avid BB-5 Mechanical Disc
Brakelevers Cannondale XC
Saddle Cannondale CO2
Seat Post Kalloy SP-359
Sizes S, M, L, X, J
Extras Cannondale Morse Grip

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Ok, and now for my local shop's displayed specs which are a bit different.

Frame: CO2 SL Disc, aluminiu
Hook: RockShox Dart 2 Turn key lockout, 100mm
Headset: FSA Orbit DL, 1-1/8''
Rear Suspensions: no
Crank: Shimano FC-M442, 22/32/44
Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-UN26
Pedals: Wellgo alloy
Cassette: Shimano HG-50, 11-34
Chain: Shimano HG-53
Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX SGS
Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore
Shifters: Shimano Deore Rapidfire
Brakelevers: Shimano BL-M485
Front Brake: Shimano BR-M485, disc hidraulic, rotor 160 mm
Rear Brake: Shimano BR-M485, disc hidraulic, rotor 185 mm
Rims: WTB Speed Disc, 32 spite
Spokes: DT Swiss Champion, 1.8mm
Front Hub(i think): Shimano RM65
Rear hub(i think): Shimano RM65
Tires: CST Comp Caballero, 26x2.0"
Handlebars: Cannondale C3, 20mm rise
Stem: Cannondale 3-D forged, 31.8mm
Saddle: Cannondale All Terrain
Seat-post: Cannondale C4, 31.6 x 350mm

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Thanks again.

I like it, especially the second build. It's a solid upper-mid-range MTB, not quite racing grade but close enough that it should be able to handle anything you throw at it, and be a very sweet ride while it's at it. The frame and base components are good enough that it's even worth considering to upgrade the fork somewhere along the line -- the one on it isn't bad by any means, but you could significantly improve it that way.

It's worth knowing, though, that Cannondales tend to be on the pricey side -- their trademark is those nicely smoothed-out welds, which have to be finished by hand but don't actually add anything to the structural integrity or ride qualities of the bike. It's also a big, well-known brand, which adds a bit too, as well as making them more attractive to thieves.

I don't think I've ever met anyone who's *regretted* buying one, though...

^ Cool. So that settles it. I'm getting this one. You're right, it is a bit more pricey than the other ones I've listed, but I won't mind putting that difference down if I get a good bike.

Man, I'm so jazzed up about it. Can't wait to get it. Thanks a bunch for all your help. I'll get back to you after buying it and let you know how it went. Should be in about 1 month.

Cool! Make sure you get the frame fitted right, though -- it's even more important than the actual quality of the bike. C-dale only does a few frame sizes, which means you need to play with the stem length and saddle position to get it to feel right. If you're buying mail-order or the shop won't do it for you, you'll have to figure it out yourself; there are plenty of good resources on the net. Just make sure you don't buy a frame that's too big -- you can always fit a frame that's a bit small by getting a longer stem and seatpost, but if it's too big, you're kinda screwed.

Here's an excellent essay on the topic, with pointers to more: [ http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html ].

Sheldon Brown's site absolutely rules; you'll find just about everything you need to know about bikes and cycling technique there. We just ordered a tandem, and the first thing I did was to go to Sheldon's site and see what he has to say about them.

Prime Junta said:

Cool! Make sure you get the frame fitted right, though -- it's even more important than the actual quality of the bike.

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Very, very true. When I was training for the MS150 the first time, I burrowed an extra bike from a friend. Thought I was going to die just doing 10-12 miles. Finally bought myself a bike and had it set up correctly for me, and I was doing 20-25 miles no problem immediately.

Yeah, thanks for the link. Seems like a really valuable resource.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go for the max size of the bike, seeing as I'm a pretty big person. I'm 185 cm in height, and weight in at aprox 90 kilos.

danutz_plusplus said:

Yeah, thanks for the link. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go for the max size of the bike, seeing as I'm a pretty big person. I'm 185 cm in height, and weight in at aprox 90 kilos.

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That's about my height as well. I checked out the specs from C-dale's site, and I would strongly steer you towards the "Large" frame size -- i.e., the middle one. The standover for the largest size (Jumbo) is about 86 cm at the midpoint of the tube, which would be dangerously close to my family jewels; unless you have unusually long legs, I suspect this would be the case for you too.

I've gone with this frame size for both of my C-dales, and they've fit just fine; I don't think I even needed to change the stem on either of them, although I did reverse them and played with the shims a bit.

Prime Junta said:

That's about my height as well. I checked out the specs from C-dale's site, and I would strongly steer you towards the "Large" frame size -- i.e., the middle one. The standover for the largest size (Jumbo) is about 86 cm at the midpoint of the tube, which would be dangerously close to my family jewels; unless you have unusually long legs, I suspect this would be the case for you too.

I've gone with this frame size for both of my C-dales, and they've fit just fine; I don't think I even needed to change the stem on either of them, although I did reverse them and played with the shims a bit.

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Ok, I get that. But I'm worried a bit about my weight. I feel I'm a pretty heavy guy. With the last bike I had, which most certainly was nothing close to the quality of this one, I felt that my weight was a bit of an issue for it. I don't recall the exact dimension of that bike, but I felt as if, had it been bigger, I would've felt a bit safer on it. It was a bit wobbly maybe, iirc. Should I have anything like this to worry about? Would an increase in size guarantee more sturdiness? Or am I just using bad logic?

Anyways, I'll surely go to the shop and check them in person. Or if they have to order them, I'll first check something similar to see how it fits.

danutz_plusplus said:

Ok, I get that. But I'm worried a bit about my weight. I feel I'm a pretty heavy guy. With the last bike I had, which most certainly was nothing close to the quality of this one, I felt that my weight was a bit of an issue for it. I don't recall the exact dimension of that bike, but I felt as if, had it been bigger, I would've felt a bit safer on it. It was a bit wobbly maybe, iirc. Should I have anything like this to worry about? Would an increase in size guarantee more sturdiness? Or am I just using bad logic?

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Weight as such doesn't affect sizing; your height, limb length, strength, experience, and riding style do.

Technically, smaller frames are stronger and flex less, but put more stress on the seatpost, although with a frame and components of Cannondale quality this won't make a noticeable difference. (In fact, their less expensive bikes are stronger; the priciest ones use all kinds of gimmicks to shave down the weight, which earned Cannondale the unfortunate nickname of Crackandfail from hardcore MTB racers. But that was years ago too.)

I'd surmise that the frame just wasn't fitted very well to you, which made it feel unstable and uncomfortable. Other things that could affect that are suspension that's not tight enough or well damped enough, or tires that aren't properly inflated, or have very knobbly treads. Or could be just that it was a crappy bike with a low-quality, flexy, wobbly frame.

I think you'll like the ride on this one, though -- as I said, C-dale's bikes always felt stabler and solider than other, comparable bikes I've ridden, at the expense of agility.

Anyways, I'll surely go to the shop and check them in person. Or if they have to order them, I'll first check something similar to see how it fits.

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Do that. If they have good sales staff, they'll be able to advise you on fitting.

Ok, done some more investigating and now I have another choice. Between the Cannondale F5 2008 version, and the Cannondale F5 Disc 2008 version. The only noticeable difference between the two is that the standard F5 has a Avid Single Digit 3R break-system (v-break), while the Disc version comes with Shimano BR-M485 w/160mm/185mm rotors, hydraulic break-system.

The difference in price is quite a bit (the disc version is aprox 18% more expensive than the standard) considering that's the only thing that's different. So I guess the question I'm asking is, are disc brakes worth it? Are they high-maintenance? I've read some stuff on the net about oil-leakage from the hydraulic brakes. Are they worth the bother? Or should I just go with the V-breakes considering I'm more of an amateur-rider than a professional one.

Thanks.

Both have their advantages. Disc brakes aren't high-maintenance; in fact they're lower-maintenance than V-brakes -- the difference is that you can maintain the V-brakes yourself, whereas disc brakes usually require a trip to the bike shop.

Disc brake pros:
* Better stopping power, especially in bad weather
* More precise feel, especially in bad weather
* Less affected by rain
* Much less affected by mud and dirt (since they're at the center rather than the rim)
* Less adjustment and maintenance needed
* Look good

Disc brake cons:
* Heavier
* Put more stress on the wheel and the frame/fork, which must also be made heavier
* Mechanically more complex, therefore less easy to repair
* Rotors are vulnerable to damage, which puts the brakes out of commission until they're replaced
* Attract thieves

V-brake pros:
* Light
* Mechanically simple
* Reliable
* Easy to install, adjust, and repair yourself
* Wide variety of pads available for different conditions and uses
* More than sufficient stopping power for any single (non-tandem) bike

V-brake cons:
* Require periodic adjustment
* Brake pads require periodic replacement
* Dirt and grit often gets under brake pad, which lessens braking power, makes scratching noises, and wears down the rims

Personally, because of the trade-offs (weight, thief magnet factor, complexity) I'd only get disc brakes for a downhill bike or a tandem; for a cross-country MTB or any road bike, I'd go with regular brakes (calipers for road bikes, V-brakes for MTB's). But then I'm something of a minimalist with bikes.

Well, it seems I can't catch a break. They don't have the F5 Cannondale in Large. Only small and medium. And they said they won't likely order new ones anytime soon. It's a fairly small shop.

So I think I might have to drop the Cannondales. The F5s were among the cheapest I could afford.

What do you think about Focus mtbs? Made in Germany.
I spotted a Focus Black Forest 2007.



Specs as follows:

Frame: Aluminium 6061, Zero Stack, double butted
Fork: Manitou R7 Super, 100 mm, Lo
Headset: integrated
Frame suspension: nu
Crank: Shimano Deore
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Pedals: Wellgo aluminiu
Cassette: Shimano Deore
Chain: Shimano HG 51
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT
Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX
Shifter Levers: Shimano Deore RapidFire
Break levers: Magura Julie
Front Brakes: Magura Julie, hydraulic - disc
Rear Brakes: Magura Julie, hydraulic - disc
Rims: Alex DP 17
Front Hub Shimano
Rear Hub: Shimano
Tires: Schwalbe Nobby Nic, 57-559
Handlebars: Concept SL
Stem: Concept SL
Saddle: San Marco Ponza K
Seat Post: Concept SL, 2 bolts

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Obs: These specs a bit different than the official ones.

This is more of a comparison to the Cannondale. Since the price is also the same as for the Cannondale F5.

Snap judgment? That looks better than the Cannondale. The components are all about one level better, including (AFAICT) the fork, which is a highly important consideration. I can't speak for the frame without seeing it, but going by what little they're saying about it, it looks pretty good too. I'm not familiar with the brand, but that in itself means nothing.

If the price is about the same as the C-dale, it would be what I'd expect -- better value for money, with the only real "cost" being not having as pretty weld seams in the frame. If you can find one that fits you, I say go for it.

N.b: Those tires look awfully fat and knobbly, though -- unless you're doing a lot of riding in actual mud, I'd swap them for somewhat skinnier semi-slicks. I've tried a lot of brands, and the only one that's never let me down is Continental. I used to have Goliaths on most of my MTB's, but they've phased that out in favor of their "Contact" series -- I believe Travel Contact is the closest equivalent.

Ok. Cool. Thanks. So they're definitely a good option. At first I felt bad about having to drop the Cannondales, but I guess I was too close to them. I hyped them up in my mind and thought anything else would be a poor choice.